BUT, doing so is not a substitute for properly tightened fasteners! That can be ok, but in our view adding the added insurance of something like double sided carpet tape can be wise - especially in the case of stacking binding plates and shims to raise height of toe or heel. Phil, in some cases it’s obvious that shear forces on the binding (forward-back-left-right) are only resisted by the tension of the screws, especially in the case of things such as Quiver Killer, due to the screw diameter being smaller than the holes in the binding mount plate. I’ll add links to the post to all our home mount DIYs, check it out. More, I’m realizing that some of the binding pull-outs we’ve heard of over the years could well have been caused by improper screw length. Thing is, I realized we needed more exposition here on Wildsnow about binding screw length for those of you doing home mounts (and perhaps for shop employees as well?). Suspicion is the mounting tech fired the shorter heel screws into the toe, or, just picked up random screws of the workbench. Not sure what truly went wrong, but the toe unit screws had about two threads engaging the ski. The binding had popped off the ski like a champagne cork during your 2nd wedding anniversary. The other day… a misfortunate soul I chance encountered at a trailhead had to ski out of the wild on one plank. Keep a clean and well organized workbench so you don’t grab the wrong screws during the process, as once the binding is on the ski and you can’t see how far the screws are inserting. Key is to evaluate all screw lengths before you begin a mount. Example being the use of heel screws in this Vipec toe, resulting in barely two threads engaging the ski. MISTAKE! Many ski touring bindings use different length screws for the toe and heel units, if you’re not paying attention it’s possible to use the wrong screws.
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